Readers Review Pearson's Texas BBQ: 4 Jacks

A real Southern BBQ is a rarity in New York City, and the closest we came for years was Pearson's in Queens until restaurateur Ken Aretsky (Patroon) enticed BBQ legend Robert Pearson out of retirement and opened Pearson's Manhattan in the former Butterfield 81 space on 81st Street and 3rd Avenue. Well-lit, small, social, and fun for family dinners, unique out-of-the-way client dinners, and casual pre- or post-movie dates, Pearson's has quickly established itself as the new place to be. During our special reader event last week, owner Aretsky stopped by to say hello, introducing his son, Pearson's manager John. YES Network CEO Leo Hindery chowed down with a sports industry colleague next to a table of upper east side women having a great time, although most tables were occupied by couples. I was joined by an eclectic bunch of readers from Meredith Publishing, A&E Networks, Carat North America, and Terra-Lycos. Terra-Lycos' Amanda Southerland, a BBQ veteran, is from Booneville, Arkansas, just 20 miles from Altus, hometown of "The Simple Life's" Leding family. Her colleague at Terra-Lycos, Susan Winé, is another Southerner from Louisville who has been in New York only since May, carries her own Zagat Guide, and is engaged to CNN's Scott Bender. A&E's Fabienne Fourquet is originally from Toulouse, France and was enjoying her first taste of BBQ. The service was almost too speedy, with food on the table within minutes of ordering. The beer selection is limited; Rheingold and Lone Star are the brews of preference. The rules of the evening were have fun, eat, and share insights about their favorite restaurants, movies, plays, and music groups. Here are their reviews and responses.

Ken Meltsner, Research Director-Magazines
Meredith Corporation
Joined by Donna Meltsner
Overall rating: 3.5 Jacks
Food - 3; Service - 4; Ambiance - 3; Value - 4.5

"A splendid time is guaranteed for all"
('Being for the Benefit of Mr. Kite'-Lennon/McCartney)

Tucked away in an unassuming upper east side location, Pearson's proves that authentic barbecue in New York City is not, as some purists would have you believe, a contradiction in terms.

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Despite a bar area that takes on a 'Night at the Opera' stateroom scene feel, this decidedly unpretentious venue serves up an assortment of genuine, succulent fare that should ensure repeat business from the immediate neighborhood and beyond.

Our group opted for the Tasting menu, which offered generous portions of traditional barbecue fare accompanied by an assortment of down home condiments (pickles, cole slaw, potato salad, cornbread, hot/sweet peppers and giant raw onion slivers). These serve to nicely augment each entrée.

The wait staff was friendly, attentive and responsive - perhaps even too fast as our food arrived literally within three minutes of ordering. The overall accommodations are somewhat cramped but the ambiance is enlivened by a classic rockabilly/blues mix played at an appropriate, never intrusive, volume.

Ah, the food! The most popular offerings were the beef ribs, brisket, pulled pork and barbecued chicken - shredded. On the beef and pork ribs the well-seasoned meats literally fell off the bone. All had a smoky, exuberant taste and texture. The barbecued kielbasa was interesting but somewhat less successful. All were served 'family style' with very generous portions. If I have one criticism it would be the lack of a sufficiently hot barbecue sauce to complement the main courses. The table selections, labeled medium and hot were both fairly bland. An angioplasty is optional.

The desserts were tasty and portions were generous. The pecan pie was exceptional and the rice pudding and peach cobbler quite good. The bread pudding was somewhat dry and the brownie sundae fairly unremarkable. Or perhaps we were just too bloated.

All in all, the company was superlative, the conversation stimulating and the bill-of-fare tasty and plentiful. I plan on returning in the near future to sample the few appetizers and entrees I missed this time around.

Stacy Plavoukos and Fabienne Fourquet, International Marketing
A&E TV Networks
Overall Ratings: 4 jacks
Food - 4; Service - 4; Ambiance - 4; Value - 4 jacks

A first and a second Texas barbecue…
Fabienne is from France and had never eaten Texas barbecue before while Stacy had tried barbecue on other occasions. At Pearson's we both had a great taste of southern cooking! The food was plentiful in this casual, tiny and colorful place. Our group ordered a sampler, which was very generous in size and a delicious mix of food from the pickles to the ribs, to the shredded chicken and the sliced brisket. The side orders were equally good; crispy french fries and warm jalapeno corn bread complemented the main course. For dessert, the pecan pie was warm and gooey but the rice pudding was not as good, too much of a clumpy ball. The wait staff was very attentive and service was quick - sometimes too fast if you like to linger over your meal. But they were always available to serve you extra beer - our first Rheingolds! We would happily recommend Pearson's to anyone who asks!

Robert Miller, Manager, Brand & Business Development
Carat North America
Overall rating: 4.0 Jacks
Food - 4; Service - 4; Ambiance - 3.5; Value - 4.0

On Thursday, December 4, 2003 a large group sat down at Pearson's on the Upper East Side for a little taste of Texas.

Expectations were high for Pearson's Texas BBQ, a buzzworthy entrance into this year's crop of new restaurants. The dinner guests included several Southerners anxious to see whether New York City could really claim authenticity in the barbecue discussion and an international representative who had never tasted BBQ. Others were there just to pig out.

Pearson's has the look and feel of a local barbecue joint, but with big city service and prices. Yet while the prices may be higher than your regular Southern pit, Pearson's is a value - and one of a kind in a city filled with barbecue imitators.

Unfortunately, for my second straight visit, Pearson's did not have the beef short ribs on the menu (apparently they're working to perfect the recipe). But that didn't matter much, because the "Round Up" (a healthy selection of some of Pearson's specialties: brisket, pork ribs, kielbasa, and N.C. style pork) was on the menu and, soon after we ordered, was sitting on our table begging to be consumed.

Sides were served; potato salad, coleslaw, fries, pickled veggies, and while they were all tasty, it was the main courses that determined Pearson's success. The brisket was complex and savory. The pork ribs came naked, allowing the smoky flavor to speak for itself. The biggest surprise may have been the kielbasa, something one may not associate with Texas style BBQ, but a dish that stood out for its burst of flavor.

Following the variety of Pearson's specialties in the "Round Up", dinner ended with a taste of all Pearson's desserts. This diner was not especially in love with the bread pudding or the peach cobbler, but the chocolate brownie with ice cream was as sweet and wonderful as it should have been and the pecan praline pie was worth going back for alone.

Overall, Pearson's offers good service, minimal décor and straight-ahead no frills BBQ at city prices. It's good for groups and families. And ribs!

Susan Winé, Promotions Manager
Amanda Southerland, Presentation Design Manager
Terra-Lycos
Overall Ratings: 4.5 jacks
Food - 4; Service - 5; Ambiance - 3; Value - 5 jacks

It's Southern flavor with Yankee service, meaning Pearson's has the best of both worlds. The BBQ is smoked and slow-cooked in the traditional southern style, but brought to your table quickly, with sides being replenished at lightening speed.

Take it from two southern-transplants to the Big Apple, the BBQ chopped chicken is the best. Complemented by "Medium" sauce as opposed to "Hot," the meat is tender and well seasoned. It melts in your mouth.

We also had pork ribs and BBQ brisket, which were "ok" but not as good as the chopped chicken. As for sides, we recommend the crispy fries and for dessert, the pecan pie. The best part about the dinner is value: good food, cheap prices.

Favorite New York Restaurant:
Fabienne Fourquet: Sushi Samba
Donna Meltsner: Four Seasons
Ken Meltsner: Lutece
Robert Miller: Il Mulino
Stacy Plavoukos: Etats-Unis
Amanda Southerland: Daniel
Susan Winé: One If By Land

Favorite TV Sitcom & Drama:
Fabienne Fourquet: Simpsons; Six Feet Under
Donna Meltsner: Friends; Six Feet Under
Ken Meltsner: Simpsons, Sopranos
Robert Miller: That 70s Show; Six Feet Under
Stacy Plavoukos: Curb Your Enthusiasm; Sopranos
Amanda Southerland: South Park; Curb Your Enthusiasm; Law & Order
Susan Winé: South Park; Sopranos

Favorite Play:
Fabienne Fourquet: Chicago
Donna Meltsner: Sweeney Todd
Ken Meltsner: Sweeney Todd
Robert Miller: The Producers
Stacy Plavoukos: Evita
Amanda Southerland: Les Miserables
Susan Winé: Mamma Mia

Favorite Movie:
Fabienne Fourquet: Brazil, Requiem for a Dream
Donna Meltsner: Some Like It Hot
Ken Meltsner: Clockwork Orange
Robert Miller: Rushmore
Stacy Plavoukos: Sound of Music
Amanda Southerland: McCabe & Mrs. Miller
Susan Winé: Dances with Wolves

Favorite Music Group:
Fabienne Fourquet: Antonio Carlos Jobim
Donna Meltsner: Beatles
Ken Meltsner: Beatles; Elvis
Robert Miller: Pavement
Stacy Plavoukos: Rolling Stones
Amanda Southerland: Velvet Underground
Susan Winé: U-2

Jack Myers Entertainment Report's entertainment rating system is based on a maximum of five jacks and a minimum of zero jacks. 0 = awful; 1 = pretty bad; 2 = okay but don't go out of your way; 3 = reasonably good but not special; 4 = very good and worth paying attention to; 5 = exceptional. Opinions are based on my own likes, dislikes and preferences.